One of the quaintest and best-loved shrines in Delhi is dedicated to a holy man who answered the prayers of a man and his wife. Matka Pir was a Sufi saint who is reputed to have listened to the woes of a couple who wanted a son, but could not offer anything, being poor, besides a pot of dal and jaggery.

He accepted the offering and placed the pot in the courtyard. A year later, the couple returned-they had their son, and in gratitude, brought another pot, starting a tradition.

The colorful shrine is located on a ridge above Mathura road, and is recognizable from the rows of earthenware pots or matkas that lead all the way up the steps into the dargah....